Genovese pesto isn’t the only pesto around: There are many regional variations, including a vibrant and light Sicilian version that stars citrus. This naturally vegan version doesn’t need cheese: The citrus provides acidity, and the umami comes from the capers and toasted nuts. Pistachios and almonds grow abundantly in Sicily, but walnuts or pine nuts also work. Feel free, generally, to adapt this base recipe, as you’ll find Italian citrus pestos made with anchovies, garlic, dried oregano, fennel fronds, dried chile and, yes, cheese. The pesto below eschews cheese as written — Italians historically don’t mix seafood and cheese — which only adds to its versatility. Pair it with pasta and fish alike.
